I went to a restaurant called Wharepuke at the suggestion of the person who runs the campground where I was staying (or "glamping"). It was exceptional. This was the path to the restaurant, for lack of a better photo. I would also like to point out, in redemption of the times on these adventures when I've been hopelessly lost, I found my way home post-dinner with no gps and no moonlight - once I've been somewhere, I'm really good at finding my way back. The first time around, though, all bets are off.
I'd originally gone to Kerikeri partly on advice of friends and partly to use it as a jump-off to head up to Cape Reinga at the top of the North Island. However, once I arrived at the thought of another two hours of driving or several hours on a tour bus, I decided to take my host's suggestion of taking a tourist route around Kerikeri. I'm very glad I did, as I pretty much had the entire route to myself.
The timing on this was great but inadvertent, I am very happy with this shot of a black wing gull.
Higher up from that same beach.
Another bay.
The only slightly disappointing thing about New Zealand is that while there are plenty of places that could house fabulous tide pools, they usually aren't particularly well occupied. Still pretty, though!
On to the next beach, complete with stream.
This place is a bird breeding ground, and much of the beach was roped off to protect nesting birds.
Another happy accidental grab of a seabird in flight.
The seagulls claimed these rocks as their own.
Sadly, the only non-bird I saw on the beach was this unfortunate puffer fish.
From there, the track that I was on turned away from the coastline and toward a Kauri forest. At one point, I was driving along a gravel road (starting to wonder if I was again lost), when I rounded a corner and saw a bird of prey munching on some roadkill. I hit the brakes, and after a brief staring contest, the bird took wing ...and then immediately hit the ground again, as some of the roadkill's intestines were still hooked around the bird's talons, creating a bungee effect. The bird puffed up majestically, while furiously trying to free itself with its other foot, then flew off again. I tried, and failed, not to laugh at the poor creature.
I did eventually find my next destination, Puketi Forest. Sadly, I didn't venture too far in, as I was both out of cell service and the only person around for miles - it was raining, the path was steep, and if I slipped, no one knew where I was. It was lovely, though.
After leaving the forest, I stopped at Haruru Falls, just north of Paihia.
I went to Paihia (where I'd been with my Mom and Aunt back in March) and decided to take the ferry over to visit Russell, which was the first permanent European settlement in New Zealand.
I believe that's the same cruise ship I saw in Tauranga in the background there.
This is the Duke of Marlborough, the oldest hotel and bar in New Zealand. It was originally built in 1827, burned down in 1845 by the Māori during the Flagstaff War, and rebuilt shortly thereafter when the British regained control of the town. I had a delicious and very late lunch on the veranda after wandering through the town and going to the local museum.
After my Russell adventure, it was back to Kerikeri in search of some dinner. First, though, I took a few pictures of the gorgeous landscaping at my lodging.
I debated walking back to Wharepuke (it was that good!), but instead decided, given my lack of faith in attempting to find my way back at night on foot, I went instead to a pub that my host had mentioned (it was not nearly as good). This took me on a walk up over a neighboring hill, which was once upon a time a Māori stronghold. First, though, I found this adorable cow family.
The walk was beautiful, as it is now a park.
Koru in the wild! The spiral of the fern features heavily in New Zealand art.
The top of the hill is still clear, where the stronghold once stood.
The other side has a commanding view of the Kerikeri River.
This is the Stone Store, the oldest stone building in New Zealand. It was part of the first Church Missionary Society station in the country.
It's a very pretty area.
...with a thriving bird population.
I was a huge fan of this bridge, and I made friends with the cute beagle on the other side.
That's a pukēko on the rock in the center.
Spring! = lots of babies.
I took a different bridge back over the river.
The newer bridge provided a nice view.
The gardens around the Stone Store were very well kept.
New Zealand now has thriving orchards and vineyards, but none of those are native. This is the first pear tree planted in the country, by a missionary named Samuel Marsden. It was planted in 1819.
The next morning I was back in the car again, heading for Rotorua.
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